Ben Macdonald Birding - Trip Reports 2003-7

Southern Morocco: 2nd - 8th January 2007

Introduction: This much anticipated week in one of the Western Palaearctic`s most bird-rich countries was only ever going to provide a brief glance at its range of avifauna, but in a week we seen a good range of southern Moroccan species including some of the region`s best specialities. Though primarily a cultural holiday, we were allowed birding time thanks to our fantastic guide Said, who has in the past acted as guide for many tour companies, and who arguably knows more about where to find birds in this country than anyone alive. Culturally, Taroudant, and Morocco as a whole, is an assault on the Western senses and a must for those who want see the vibrancy of the third world.

Logistics:We were based at Taroudant, an hour inland from Agadir, and did daily excursions by car into the surrounding area. A driver is nearly essential to reach many key sites as signposts are virtually non-existent and the Moroccan way of driving demands a whole different psychology. Taxis can easily be hired from towns. Due to the nomadic nature of many species here, especially raptors, birding is done by driving and pulling over once something is sighted. We were too early for many specialities and were told that March is the premier birding month in Morocco. The weather in January is fantastic, permitting great photography and digiscoping.

Key Sites:

Any area of semi-desert in the Taroudant-Agadir area will offer good chances of Lanner, Barbary Falcon and the beautiful Black-winged Kite as well as common species such as White Stork, Cattle Egret, Southern Grey Shrike, Crested Lark and Moussier`s Redstart, whilst towns will provide many Common Bulbul and House Bunting.

1. Souss Massa National Park : One of the few sites we visited thoroughly, the massa has an amazing amount of species. Our first stop in the Southern Massa south of the park boundary produced many Plain Martin and the elusive Black-crowned Tchagra. The track between the Agadir-Tarfaya road and the reserve was very productive, notably for Barbary Partridge, Slender-billed Gull and the Glossy Ibis colony of fifty birds, which can be viewed through dense foliage on the left of the track that runs to the reserve. Spanish Terrapins can also be observed basking here. The National Park proper is great. Greater Flamingo and five to seven Marbled Duck can be observed from the picnic site at the car park. Glossy Ibis feed out on the inland estuary with a good range of waders including Black-winged Stilt. Double figures of Audouin�s Gull can be seen with the loafing flocks. Cranes regularly pass through.

2. Oued Sous: Another excellent wetland site near Agadir which can provide excellent birding from a few roadside stops. Large waterbirds include Greater Flamingo and Spoonbill and there is a range of waders. Birds in the sueda are varied and in addition to Black-crowned Tchagra included, on our visit, Bluethroat and Spectacled Warbler. Egyptian Mongoose can be seen crossing the tracks with luck and Greenish Black-Tip butterflies occur.

3. Tamri: Bald Ibis is the reason birders come here: the birds commute from their cliff colony to the North to feed on the beach here in varying numbers. The colony now numbers over two hundred birds. Osprey and Audouin`s Gull are likely here.

4. The Atlas Mountains: Home to a vast range of birds. In our tiny glance at them we found the area between the Sous Valley and the Tizi-n-Test pass good for Black Wheatear, Barbary Partridge Barbary Falcon and Rock Bunting.

Daily Summaries:

2.1.07: Taroudant:
Waking up after flying in the night before, a brief glance from the window provided our first vocal Common Bulbuls and several colourful House Buntings in addition to ticks of White Stork and Cattle Egret. Outside the Palais Salem where we spent just one night we saw our only Lesser Kestrel of the week high overhead. The Palais gardens provided hundreds of Common Bulbul as well as Blackcap. We arrived at our guesthouse at 2pm and a scan from the roof soon picked up a very distant falcon that could have been Lanner or Barbary. It was fantastic when the bird flew in close with a Spotless Starling in its talons before flying ten feet overhead - a Lanner Falcon. Later in the evening, a flock of fifteen Little Swift started catching flies overhead. Flocks of Cattle Egret flew overhead to roost.

3.1.07: Taroudant & the Anti-Atlas:
One of the best birds of the holiday came just outside of the town when Said pulled over for a stunning adult Black-winged Kite - one of our most hoped for species, it was even better in realoty than we could have imagined with its fierce red eyes in a white face. There were also Crested Lark and, close-by, a Southern Grey Shrike. We drove high into the Anti-Atlas where we were shown the harshness of life for the parched communities out there. We noted our first Moussier`s Redstart on the descent, another striking species. The Palm Oasis at which we spent lunchtime was hot and quiet, with calling Serin and a single Spanish Sparrow seen in flight. A Southern Grey Shrike caught flies next to the bus, and both Moussier`s and Black Redstart were noted at a nearby Kasbah. Back at Taroudant in the evening, a mind-blowingly distant raptor was eventually identified as a Long-legged Buzzard.

5.1.07: The Sous Valley to the Tizi-n-Test Pass, Atlas Mountains:
Heading out of Taroudant, we had soon passed another two Black-winged Kites on telegraph wires. Our first stop was for a Peregrine Falcon which surprised us all in this habitat. Next, Said called another kite but on stopping we found it to be a pinkish-tinted falcon like a small peregrine - a Barbary Falcon, which gave good views overhead. Soon we began to climb into the Atlas and in addition to the complimentary Southern Grey Shrikes placed on every other wire, we soon picked up a covey of Barbary Partridge on the rocky slopes. We noted Moussier`s Redstart on the climb, followed by a cracking male Rock Bunting. The best bird came during a higher stop in the form of a striking male Black Wheatear. After taking lunch at the Tizi-n-Test pass restaurant, we started a walk down into the valley with a guide from a local village. We soon picked up another Barbary Falcon and more Black Wheatears. After taking mint tea in the guide`s home, yet another example of the amazing Moroccan hospitality and warmth, we climbed out of the valley where we noted the Moroccan race of Crossbill and Bath White butterfly.

6.1.07: Taroudant to the Souss Massa National Park:
A rooftop scan before we left the guesthouse provided a very close Barbary Falcon and a more distant Lanner Falcon. En-route I frustratingly missed a Laughing Dove that Said called. We saw repeats of many species and glimpsed a Long-legged Buzzard just south of Agadir. Arriving at a wetland area to the south of the park, we immediately heard Cetti�s Warbler and saw Fan-tailed Warbler. Plain Martins flew overhead and were surprisingly joined by a few Crag Martins as well as some Swallows. Soon Dad had found a stunning male Black-crowned Tchagra perched atop a wall; it showed extremely well, flicking its tail for some minutes before diving into cover. In fields nearby a amazingly confiding Squacco Heron was catching worms and we noted another Moussier`s Redstart. Some tame Cattle Egrets also entertained. We now headed towards the actual national park across a semi-desert terrain adjacent to the delta. A stop for Moussier`s Redstart also provided five Slender-billed Gulls as they flew past on tern-like wings. A second stop was for the Glossy Ibis colony. Initially hard to see, all fifty birds were soon flushed by a passing Marsh Harrier and looked resplendent as the purple and green sheen on their wings caught the sun. Three Spanish Terrapins basked in the sun and another Black-crowned Tchagra popped up. At a third stop a little further on, a showy male Blue Rock Thrush. At the reserve car park, Greater Flamingo entertained whilst seven Marbled Duck, one of the reserves most important and rare species, looked small and brown in the heat haze. Walking along the estuary we encountered several Sardinian Warbler. Feeding with the Glossy Ibis which had moved out from the colony were a large flock of Black-winged Stilt along with a few British waders such as Spotted Redshank, Bar-tailed Godwit and Common Sandpiper. Looking back at the Greater Flamingo flock, it took two looks to realise that they had been joined by thirteen Common Crane, and the combination of the two was a memorable sight. Out to sea, Gannet and Sandwich Terns were seen.

8.1.07: Taroudant to Oued Sous, to Tamri:
In the morning I took the chance to photograph our local friendly House Bunting before we set off towards Oued Sous. En-route we noted more of the usual species plus a Black-winged Kite which flew right over the car. Arriving the Oued Souss the most striking sight was that of over one hundred Greater Flamingo on the pans, along with four Black-winged Stilt and a Grey Plover. A second stop a little downstream added at least five Spoonbill, whilst an elusive Black-crowned Tchagra moved through the vegetation. Suddenly everything happened at once, with Moussier`s Redstarts popping up, followed by another bird which jumped into the scope: a pristine Bluethroat. It proceeded to sing right in front of us for a minute before moving off. As I scanned to relocate it, a small, pinkish and rufous warbler resembling a small Whitethroat popped up and I briefly registered it as my first Spectacled Warbler whilst an otter-like Egyptian Mongoose ran past us and a Greenish Black-Tip flew over. As we left, ten Slender-billed Gulls flew past and, after an hour and a half`s drive through some eerily quiet, uninhabited coastal desert, we eventually reached Tamri. A ten minute scan of the estuary immediately yielded a fishing Osprey and twelve Audouin`s Gull whilst a pair of Southern Grey Shrike caught flies close-by. Our target bird was obviously feeding elsewhere so we sat down for lunch, eyes fixed on the distant spot where they come down to feed. Then suddenly, about ten feet to our left, three Bald Ibis came sailing in to land on the cliffs right beside us. In the scope we were, for five minutes, able to enjoy this amazingly strange-looking, charismatic species, of which less than five hundred remain in the world today. It even allowed a photograph before moving off along the coast and out of sight. Another great end to a holiday, though we will certainly be returning here in the future.

Corsica: 27^th August - 10^th September 2006

Introduction: Corsica is principally an island of stunning scenery but few birds. Quality, specialist birds exist but require good site knowledge and the vast majority of sightings were made early morning or evening time. Over two weeks we connected with nearly all our target species, but be prepared for long, bird-less hours in between, especially in late summer. Flora aside, Corsica is an unbelievable place and a photographic paradise.

Logistics: Driving in Corsica takes much more time than maps suggest, so it is much less feasible to “site-hop” than on other Mediterranean islands due to the nature of the roads. We used the Michelin 1:150,000 mapping series, though a slightly smaller scale would have been better-suited. Randonées are not well-marked: despite the GR20 being one of Europe’s best-known trails, we suspect most walkers make it up as they go along.

Key Sites:

There are many potentially good sites on the island, but here are those which we found most productive, or which offer good chances of the island’s specialities. Common avifauna is limited, but abundant island birds of interest to the British birder include Red Kite, Sardinian Warbler, Hooded Crow, Spotless Starling and Serin.

1. Gorges de la Restonica :

In our opinion the number one site for mountain species, with a backdrop of breath-taking scenery. Access is off the N193 at Corte; follow signs for Restonica and take the D623 up the valley. From top to bottom:

· Lac de Capitello at 1700m is the number one site on the island for Alpine Accentor in the spring. These were not present on our trip but tame flocks of Corsican Citril Finch and Alpine Chough were observed. Note that two hard-going climbs are required.

· Berg. de Grotello is the furthest point to be reached by car and probably one of the two best sites on the island for mountain raptors. Both Golden Eagle and Lammergeier were seen here in the evening, after the heat of the day.

· Tuani is a tiny camping-restaurant complex approximately half-way up the valley, on your left if you are going up. The mature Corsican Pines around the river and bridge hold at least two pairs of Corsican Nuthatch, which were extremely active in the evening.

2. Asco Valley:

Access is via the long and tortuous D147 off the N197, just N of Ponte Leccia. Allow at least 1½ hours to reach the top of the valley.

· Haut-Asco at the head of the valley is another traditional site for both endemics. We encountered several Corsican Nuthatch by walking straight up the valley for 200m from the car park to where you reach the most mature pines. Raptors are likely here.

· 6km below Haut Asco is a very narrow river bridge. Park up and look up the valley to an obvious rock pinnacle, which local birders inform us is a regular perch for Lammergeier. Almost any stop within the valley is guaranteed to produce Crag Martin. Doubtless a number of other mountain species could be seen in the valley in Spring.

· The orchards and farmland within a few miles of the N197 hold a good number of butterflies including Cardinal and Swallowtail.

3. Etang de Biguglia:

Rather disappointing on our visit, though Audouin’s Gull should be seen amid the gull flock at the north end of the lake, best viewed from the D107 just N of La Marana. Fan-tailed Warbler was common. Moustached Warbler is a regular visitor here though generally later in the year. A huge lake, with great potential for birds on passage.

4. Etang d’Urbino

One of a series of promising lakes around Aleria on the east coast. Access is via an un-mapped road which leads down the central peninsula, signposted off the N198. This is probably the best site for large waterbirds in Corsica, with Greater Flamingo on passage and good numbers of egrets.

5. Col de Bavella

Another site for mountain birdlife, though during our visit we found this an excellent site for endemic butterfly species, with good numbers of Corsican Heath and Corsican Grayling as well as Cardinal, Southern Grayling and “Mediterranean” Wall Brown (L.m. paramagaera). The Corsican race of Crossbill was abundant here.

6. The Bonifacio Area

By far the most exciting birding area on the island, especially as Mediterranean migration was underway at this time. A number of sites, all easily accessible, offer good birding with a good variety of species. Our visit coincided with an amazing movement of Bee-eaters, with up to 500 passing over our villa daily. Other highlights include the full range of Sylvia warblers and daily sightings of the spectacular Two-tailed Pasha butterfly. In order of priority:

· The Pertusadu Lighthouse is accessed off the D58 out of Bonifacio. Leaving the town, the road forks - take the D260 and continue to park at the customs building on the cliff. Walk across the scrub to the lighthouse. Dartford, Subalpine and Marmora’s Warblers all occur, especially around the lighthouse itself. Alpine and Pallid Swifts are possible overhead, while other migrants could include Red-footed or Eleonora’s Falcons with Cory’s Shearwater offshore.

· The D60 from the N196 runs through the maquis and is an excellent place to find the Sylvia species. We had several of each calling, and stunning views of at least one male Marmora’s Warbler. Woodlark is also present here. Park opposite the two gas cylinders about 1500m from the N196 and walk across the scrub on your left.

· Bonifacio itself is an excellent site. Blue Rock Thrush nest on the battlement walls and Rock Sparrow are present in the citadel itself, though we only heard them. Spanish Sparrow are present in small numbers in the gardens of the harbour car park and can be easily picked out from the local Italian jobs.

Daily Summaries:

27.8.06: Etang de Biguglia to L’Ile Rousse:

Arriving in a pleasant 27ºC, we left Bastia Airport and drove towards Etang de Biguglia, noting our first Red Kites, Hooded Crows and several flocks of Spotless Starling. Finding “clear” areas to observe the lake was difficult, but a stop at Pineto produced song-flighting Fan-tailed Warbler & calling Cetti`s Warbler, but the lake itself only yielded a single Black-necked Grebe in summer moult, Little Egret, Yellow-legged Gull, and a distant view of the Corsican race of Sparrowhawk (wolterstorffi). We drove up the D107, stopping north of La Marana, where after a little searching we found a smart adult Audouin`s Gull amid the large numbers of other gulls. The drive to Ile Rousse was uneventful, the skies clear of the usual range of raptors you might expect in a foreign country. On arrival at our villa in Monticello, we observed several more Red Kite and a brief Sardinian Warbler. In the evening, Dad was gently menaced by a Hummingbird Hawk-moth as it fed close to his ears.

28.8.06: Monticello and Asco Valley:

An early morning walk provided some garden Sardinian Warblers, a singing Cirl Bunting, a flyover Fan-tailed Warbler, Spotless Starlings, a flock of twenty Serin and a profusion of Spotted Flycatcher (tyrrhenica). This species was amazingly abundant on the island throughout so won’t be mentioned again. In addition, we observed “Italian” Sparrow and the Corsican races of Blue Tit and Great Tit. A Lang`s Short-tailed Blue butterfly was a welcome lifer before we left the villa. Several Red Kite and some very large Buzzards (arrigonii) were noted as we entered the Asco Valley. A stop approximately 3km into the valley in arid farmland produced a juvenile Red-backed Shrike, Ravens and a frustrating fly-over Corsican Citril Finch, which has a diagnostic one-note flight call and is canary yellow-green when seen from below. Butterflies were well-represented with a colony of impressive Cardinal, Green-underside Blue, Silver-studded Blue and Swallowtail. The spectacular scenery within the narrow gorge provided only Crag Martins and our first Corsican Grayling butterfly despite numerous stops, and it was 15:00 when we eventually reached Haut Asco. A walk up towards the most ancient Corsican pines immediately produced calling Corsican Nuthatch (a very distinctive call like a whistle being blown in slow motion) but views were terrible against the sun and we soon had to leave the site. We also recorded the local race of Great-spotted Woodpecker (parroti).

29.8.06: Walk from Monticello to St. Reparata to St Antonino:

After howling winds all night, the morning got off to a better start with a pale-phase adult Eleonora`s Flacon in off the sea, being mobbed for a minute or so before leaving. We began a walk up towards the convent of St. Reparata, when we first noticed an interesting raptor, and realised that it was a Lesser Kestrel. Over the next two hours we observed at least one pair of these birds, and wondered, what with Corsica’s lack of birders, whether they could have been an overlooked breeding pair. They made sorties from suitable ruined buildings, catching insects on the wing with great agility. A Swallowtail showed well here:

30.8.06: Pointe de la Ravellata, Calvi:

A brief Two-tailed Pasha flew past the car here, but otherwise quiet.

31.8.06: Foret de Bonifato:

Two more Two-tailed Pasha butterflies flew past the car as we made our way inland from Calvi to start a walk in the forest. In a day’s walking, the island’s lack of overall bird numbers or species really kicked in - we recorded single Firecrest and a juvenile Crossbill (corsicana). Singles of Corsican Grayling and the attractive Southern Grayling were also seen. The theft of my beloved Nikon Coolpix 990 didn’t improve the day.

1.9.06: Gorges de la Restonica:

The moment we cleared August, the birding picked up. Arriving at the Bergerie de Grotello at the head of the valley at 11:00, we soon found a very vocal “Corsican” Wren. At the Lac de Melo, thousands of Hirundines including both Crag Martins were on the wing, and a Wheatear was also noted. Having regained my breath I got up to the Lac de Capitello in under half an hour, where the birding immediately picked up, with five Alpine Choughs taking bread a few feet away. Best of all were a cracking flock of very confiding Corsican Citril Finches, thirty in all. At 6pm, scanning for raptors at the car park finally paid off when a cracking sub-adult Golden Eagle glided down the mountainside. Sadly, I had just picked up the distant but unmistakable, drooping silhouette of a Lammergeier when it disappeared from view. Our first stop for nuthatch drew a blank, but two adult Short-toed Eagles passing overhead were good to see. We then pulled in at Tuani further down the valley and immediately heard, then saw, a Corsican Nuthatch frequenting the very tops of the trees. It soon became more active and made flycatcher-like forays to a favoured cone. Soon it was joined by a female and, over the next half hour, the pair gave stunning views to five metres, commuting from the pines to a dead tree where they appeared to store the seeds they had extracted. A very attractive bird.

2.9.06: Reserve Naturelle de Scandola:

Today was notable for its volcanic formations and the wonderful sight of osprey nests sitting on top of them. The birds themselves would certainly have been appreciated, but the nests weren’t unattractive. A cracking Audouin’s Gull flew past, but the highlight was the sight of two Mouflon standing proud on a high precipice. For the Opsreys an earlier boat visit, from Calvi, would be needed and well worth it.

3.9.06: Etang d’Urbino; Calzarello & Bonifatio:

An good day’s birding today saw us move from our villa in the North to one in Bonifatio, via some wetlands on the East coast. A stop at Etang d’Urbino mid-way was the most productive, with a Greater Flamingo feeding in the shallows, a vast Great White Egret amid many Little Egret, a Marsh Harrier and a probable Whiskered Tern. We also encountered a field of Long-tailed Blue butterflies and a Clouded Yellow. At Calzarello, at the end of the D244, we immediately heard the amazing call of Bee-eaters and soon found five birds catching insects from a tree. Sadly these were nearly all juveniles but they heralded a mass migration of these colourful birds. A juvenile Balearic Woodchat Shrike shared the same tree. Arriving at our villa in the evening, a walk overlooking distant Bonifatio produced at least three long-range Alpine Swifts and a huge number of juvenile Cirl Buntings.

4.9.06: Capo Pertusadu, Villa near Bonifatio:

Together with Restonica, our only really excellent day’s birding. We arrived at the headland at the end of the D260 early morning to find a flock of at least sixty Bee-eaters migrating high overhead. As we walked towards the lighthouse, we got the bird of the holiday for us - a cracking dark-phase adult Red-footed Falcon flying right past us for about ten seconds. Out at the Pertusadu lighthouse, a range of different Sylvia were calling. The first one I finally saw was a Dartford Warbler, but soon we also picked up a female Subalpine Warbler while Dad had a male. Several juveniles complicated things, and several Sardinian Warblers popped up. Suddenly, an “all grey Dartford” popped up in the scope and I just realised I had a Marmora`s Warbler when it went down. Returning satisfied to the car, we didn’t get far before a territorial male Two-tailed Pasha soon asserted his presence, allowing some good photo opportunities. The Villa provided some typical Med birds this afternoon, the best one being a class Hoopoe that flapped slowly down the adjoining road after being startled, and two Pallid Swifts over the pool, in the company of several flocks of Bee-eater. After dusk in Bonifatio, Alpine Swifts could be heard calling high over the old barracks but were too high to see.

5.9.06: Capo Pertusadu, Villa and Bonifatio:

We returned to the lighthouse this morning to gain stunning views of a female Marmora’s Warbler as it performed in the open for nearly twenty minutes. At least one Pallid Swift went over, and hundreds of Bee-eaters were calling, most too high up to see. Back at the villa, we noted Two-tailed Pasha and Swallowtail. In the evening at the fortifications at the very tip of Bonifatio, I eventually located a rather dopey juvenile Blue Rock Thrush as it sat on the battlement walls.

6.9.06: Ile de Lavezzi, Bonifatio, Villa & Plaza de St Amanza:

A boat trip to the Ile de Lavezzi was incredibly quiet with not a single shearwater seen, despite the fact that nearly four thousand Yelkouan Shearwater breed around the island. All we got was a juvenile Audouin`s Gull on a rock. Back in Bonifatio, we were lucky enough to locate a genuine Spanish Sparrow in the harbour car park amid a flock; despite lacking its full summer plumage, the breast streaking and richer head markings are characteristic. A Peregrine was also noted. Back at the Villa, over 100 Bee-eaters passed at 10:30, with the next highest count of eighty over the pool at 15:00 and many others flocks, often totally fifty birds each. In the evening at Plaza St. Amanza off the D58, a cracking Eleonora`s Falcon came flying right overhead on extraordinarily fast wingbeats.

7.9.06: Bocca di a Testa, Figari and Villa :

A morning walk off the N196 produced a Southern White Admiral and Bee-eaters. After shopping in Figari we thought we might check out the airport area for Rock Sparrow. Repelled by the thought of arrest for suspected terrorist surveillance, we settled for birding a nearby orchard where we found a large number of Serin, Sardinian Warbler, Cirl Bunting and singles of Hoopoe and Hawfinch. At the Villa early evening, a cracking Firecrest frequented the trees and some particularly showy Bee-eaters caught insects over the wires.

8.9.06: The D60, the D368 near Ospedale, Col de Bavella, Villa:

After watching some settled Bee-eaters and Cirl Buntings at the Villa, we stopped on the D60 and walked into the maquis. The mammal highlight of the trip came when we startled a family of Wild Boar including a very vocal mother, which gave good views as they fortunately ran in the other direction. All four Sylvia warblers were calling in number but sadly we only stayed long enough to see a cracking male Marmora`s Warbler singing away right next to us and a female Black Redstart. A roadside stop near Ospedale produced a huge flock of ‘Corsican’ Crossbill, which are particularly stocky and with powerful bills. We also had another look at Corsican Citril Finches as they fed nearby. At Zonza we noted a Geranium Bronze and a Great Banded Grayling before moving onto the Col de Bavella, where butterflies included Swallowtail, many Cardinal, many Corsican Grayling, Southern Grayling and several Corsican Heath. Sadly the flight period of the Corsican Swallowtail ends in July, but this can be found on Sardinia. Back at the villa we observed a single flock of 150 Bee-eaters, nearly all juveniles, and heard our first Scops Owl of the holiday as it called half-heartedly near the pool.

9.9.06:Capo Pertusadu:

After a largely non-birding day, we decided to try the Cap once more in the hope of shearwaters. After two hours fruitless searching, I eventually picked out some mind-blowingly distant Cory`s Shearwaters passing by way out to sea.

10.9.06: The N200 at Aléria:

On the journey to the airport, a brief stop at the end of the N200 failed to produce any Rock Sparrows in the car park, a favoured spot for them, but a cracking Osprey flew past providing a good end to the holiday.

Northern France: 30^th June – 7^th July 2006

Introduction: This was a family holiday based largely in southern Brittany around the Briere. Considering most birding was done on hot July afternoons, we found most of the area’s species that you would expect to see at this time of year and some good butterflies. Many thanks to Geoff Dicker for his excellent 2004 trip report from the area, at www.surfbirds.com. The Michelin 1cm: 2km mapping series was also invaluable.

Key Sites:

1. Briere Marshes

The entire area produced numerous sightings of such birds as Marsh Harrier, Black Kite and the inescapable escapee, the Sacred Ibis. Though this area is vast on the map, most of it is largely inaccessible except by boat.

At the Chausée Neuve Reserve, there is a small observatory at the end of the D127 from St Andre des Eaux. The main attraction is a huge colony of Whiskered Tern though no black tern were present, though these had probably dispersed. Spoonbill, Black-winged Stilt and Little Egret were nesting, as were Sacred Ibis in huge numbers.

The Reserve Naturelle at Rozé is just off the D50. Common breeding birds were Yellow Wagtail, Fan-tailed Warbler. Purple Heron breed far out in the reeds, affording distant flight views, but we achieved stunning views of Night Heron here. White Stork was seen, and Little Ringed Plover breed on the scrapes. Obviously in May-June, specialities such as Bluethroat will be easier to see.

Better than both of these sites put together was one we found ourselves - a tract of marshland just east of the village of St Lyphard. Access is off the D47, opposite the Chaumières-du-Lac Hotel. Walk towards the poplars and turn left along a narrow grass lane to reach a wooden bridge. You can walk left or right alongside the marshes. Dawn and dusk were very productive, with watches from 6-8am producing Bluethroats, Savi’s Warblers, Bearded Tit, Night Heron and Spoonbill. Evening watches over the reedbeds produced many Night Herons, Purple Heron, Little Bittern and many egrets all flying to roost. Mammals in this area included Coypu, Nutria and Otter.

2. Golfe du Morbihan:

The official reserve at the Golfe is the Marais de Sene just south of Vannes, accessed off the D779, follow signposts to Sene. Again, late summer is not particularly productive but good numbers of nesting Avocets and Black-winged Stilts were present, as were Fan-tailed and Dartford Warblers. Since Geoff’s 2004 trip report, it might be useful to add that neither Bee-eater nor Roseate Tern breed in the Golfe anymore, but Larmor-Baden is an excellent passage site for the latter, with up to 50 present throughout August. We did not visit the Golfe extensively, but the Point de Penvins is a good site for Kentish Plover; we easily found them on the mudflats just N of the church.

3. Foret de Gavre & Nantes-Brest Canal:

This excellent forest is a fantastic site for woodpeckers - but not in July. Though Black and Middle-spotted were heard, neither were seen. There are numerous access points best mentioned in Geoff’s report, but an excellent walk is the Allée Forestière de la Chausée, the track running south from the Carrefour de la Belle Etoile in the forest centre. This produced good numbers of Crested Tit, Short-toed Treecreeper and Bonelli’s Warbler and many calling woodpeckers. Clearings along the Route Forestière de Carheil from the D164 produced displaying Honey Buzzards, with calling Dartford and Melodious Warblers in the scrub. Out of interest, up to 15 Nightjars were seen here by another observer one evening. Very close to the forest is the excellent Nantes-Brest canal at Guenrouet. Park off the D2 and walk south along the canal towpath. You can easily see double figures of Turtle Dove, we had calling Hoopoe too. By far the best bird is the Golden Oriole - these are present in both the poplar plantations at Guenrouet and further south near Carheil but in July family parties move into the surrounding oaks, becoming easier to see.

Other Sites:

The saltpans at Guérande will produce huge numbers of Avocet and smaller numbers of Black-winged Stilt, with passage waders in July. This is also an excellent site for Bluethroat, though again these are very elusive in July. As usual, we only scratched the surface on our visit, and would be glad to hear from anyone else visiting the region.

Daily Summaries:

30.6.06 : Birding around Caen :

A quiet day’s birding. In coastal fields at Bernière-sur-Mer, a Fan-tailed Warbler was in flight over crops, while some stops along the D83 near Fontaine-Henry produced a Short-toed Treecreeper and calling Turtle Dove. At the abbey of Thaon, we found a family of Marsh Tit, singing Nightingale and a pale-phase male Honey Buzzard. The afternoon was quiet too, with a stop at the River Dives on the D78 producing Marsh Harrier and more surprisingly, a single White Stork. A pair of Serins at the Pegasus Bridge Café finished the day.

1.7.06 : Caen to Briere Marshes :

Our stop en-route today was the Foret de Rennes. We spent three hours in an area off the D358 near some pools. Birding was appalling in the afternoon sunshine, but butterflies were excellent, with huge numbers of White Admiral and smaller numbers of Silver-washed Fritillary and Large Chequered Skipper, as well as a single Purple Emperor. Wood Warbler, Short-toed Treecreeper and Marsh Tit were seen. Normally French motorway journeys are made interesting by raptor sightings. Today, it was a Purple Heron flying over the N137 S of Rennes that provided the interest. We arrived at St Lyphard, Briere Marshes, early evening. A pre-dinner walk from the hotel produced a good range of butterflies including four Purple Hairstreak, a Purple Emperor, White Admiral and several each of Large Chequered and Silver-spotted Skipper. We soon came upon two Sacred Ibis. A Honey Buzzard overhead was presumably passing through, and there were four each of Marsh Harrier and Black Kite. Over the reed beds, we saw our only decent Purple Heron of the holiday, which gave excellent flight views. Soon, an adult Night Heron came flying in but a probable Little Bittern, flying low over the reeds, was too brief for a certain ID.

2.7.06 : Briere Marshes :

We left the hotel before 6am this morning with a beautiful sunrise over the marshes and some less appealing horse flies and mosquitoes thrown in too. Turtle Dove was purring, and emerging onto the marsh we found three Spoonbill feeding close-by with the ibis. As we walked around the marsh, a Bluethroat popped up right next to me - sadly it had its back turned so the best part of the bird went unnoticed as it soon dived into cover! Two Night Heron flew overhead and soon the dull reeling of a Savi`s Warbler was heard. Over the next two hours, we got closer and closer until they seemed right next to us, but despite at least four birds singing at the same time not one was seen. A pair of Yellow Wagtail flew over, a Black Kite flew in to catch fish and another Bluethroat gave excellent views singing from bush tops within the reeds. A Cirl Bunting was in a nearby tree. A very productive morning visit. After breakfast we visited the Chausée Neuve, where the colony of Whiskered Terns - easily up to 80 birds - was in full action. Three pairs of nesting Black-winged Stilt were present, as was a nesting Spoonbill. Turtle Dove and Little Egret were common here. The heronries mentioned in previous reports were only very small, consisting entirely of Greys, though a tree-full of Sacred Ibis was an impressive sight. In the afternoon we took a trip to the reserve naturelle at Rozé, stopping en-route for the cormorant colony N of Saint-Joachim. At the reserve we soon found Fan-tailed Warbler, with Spoonbill, Little Ringed Plover and Green Sandpiper on the scrapes. Over the marshes we picked up a single Black Tern, some very distant Purple Herons, a flying White Stork and many Black Kite. Returning down the path, a Night Heron gave stunning views - first flying, then in a tree 10ft away, as did a Yellow Wagtail. To avoid any more heat, we took a walk in a small wood near Herbignac, which produced two Cuckoo and a very brief female Hen Harrier flushed off a haystack, as well as more White Admiral and Silver-washed Fritillary.

3.7.06 : Briere & Golfe du Morbihan :

This morning’s early morning start was hampered by light rain, and the only bird seen was a Night Heron, though both Bearded Tit and Savi`s Warbler were heard. Flocks of Sacred Ibis were an impressive sight overhead, and we enjoyed views of both Coypu and a more distant Otter. We reached the Marais de Sene Reserve at lunchtime, where we wondered if the combination of Turtle Dove and Cirl Bunting on the same wire would still be possible in England. The marshes held limited species; many Avocets, two flying Black-winged Stilts, a Greenshank and calling Dartford Warbler in addition to a showy Fan-tail. Our last birding stop of the day was the Point de Penvins, where Sandwich and Common Terns were fishing offshore. Kentish Plover was soon picked up on the large area of mudflats - at least three in total - but these were quite distant as the tide was out. This evening back at St Lyphard, the roost provided three Night Heron, a Spoonbill and a reeling Savi`s Warbler, but the best sighting was an Otter that popped up right next to us before taking a fish.

4.7.06 : Briere Marshes & Foret de Gavre :

The same morning walk provided excellent views of Night Heron again and prolonged if distant views of a territorial Bluethroat. Cetti`s Warbler joined Savi`s on the growing “heard” list, but several Coypu were a bit less subtle as they crashed across the path. The Foret de Gavre is a brilliant place filled with clear, well-marked paths. We walked south of the central crossroads, soon picking up families of Crested Tit which gave stunning views. Short-toed Treecreepers were quite common and Marsh Tit showed. Hours later, several woodpeckers had called, including at least one Middle-spotted and a Black Woodpecker, but neither showed. Much later in the walk, a pair of Bonelli`s Warbler was a personal highlight but a Spotted Flycatcher was good to see as well. A further stop along the Route Forestière de Carheil produced a brief Dartford Warbler, calling Melodious Warbler and Middle-spotted Woodpecker, and two Large Tortoiseshell around the pines. In the evening back at St Lyphard, we enjoyed excellent views of some quite cuddly Nutria - though initially mistaking them for beavers!

5.7.06 : Guérande, Foret de Gavre and Nantes-Brest Canal :

After a brilliant morning’s visit to Guérande, we had a brief look at the saltpans, where hundreds of Avocets outnumbered the less common Black-winged Stilt (two) and Ruff (one). It was too late for the Bluethroats in the scorching heat, so we moved on to the Foret de Gavre. Stopping at the Rond Point de Carheil off the D164, a pair of Honey Buzzard gave a brilliant aerial display, but another stop in a clearing produced the same “heard” ticks as yesterday. Giving up, we moved off the Guenrouet. As soon as we got out of the car, we heard at least two Golden Oriole calling from the poplars beside the Nantes-Brest canal, but the density of these trees made viewing them impossible. A walk south along the canal produced numerous Turtle Doves and calling Hoopoe. It was looking like a washout when a Golden Oriole suddenly fluted right next to us, and two birds shot away overhead. Half an hour later we were still struggling to see any, with at least six birds calling to each other from trees across the canal. Suddenly, a static gleam of yellow showed in an oak and there it was - a stunning male oriole sitting in the open, soon followed by up to five others - another male, two females and two juveniles. What a bird - best till last!

France - La Brenne & Pyrenees : August 2005

Introduction: Having had our Austria trip pulled at the last minute due to the Heathrow strikes, it turned out to be an incredible stroke of luck as, two weeks later, we looked back on a brilliant trip through France and North Spain that yielded many overdue and sought-after species. Our target species on this trip were principally Purple Heron in La Brenne and Lammergeier in the Pyrenees as these were some of the very first species on my birding “wish-list”.

Logistics: We took a camper van across to the continent, travelling down and staying in out of the way places. Accomodation for La Brenne is easily found at Mézières-en-Brenne whilst for a good exploration of the French Pyrenees, accommodation around the Gavarnie area is ideal though in season you will struggle to find anything below the mountain village of Gedré. As always, the Michelin mapping series proved invaluable.

Key Sites:

Parc Regionale de la Brenne:

All areas in the park are likely to produce such species as Whiskered Tern, Purple Heron, Cattle & Great Egrets and Osprey in August in addition to commoner farmland species, but we found the following sites the most productive:

·          Etang de Gabrière: A large lake with much potential – notable for its Night Heron roost; birds fly over the hotel situated beside the lake each dusk. Good for egrets and herons and a breeding site for Eurasian Bittern.

·          La Chérine: A designated nature reserve with a large Purple Heron colony which may be viewed on request from a locked hide; ask at the information desk. Pond Tortoise are easy to see here and may be observed around the information centre.

·          Etange de Bellebouche: A large, popular lake whose surrounding woodland provides Hoopoe, Short-toed Treecreeper and woodpeckers. Another Purple Heron colony exists here, birds are most active at dawn. A large population of Long-eared Owls are apparently evident here in early summer.

·          Etange de Blizon: A large egret roost of all three species can be seen here as well as other heron species and especially large numbers of Whiskered Tern.

·          Foret Lacosme: To the east of the main body of lakes, a good site for Black Woodpecker though these were elusive in August.

French Pyrenées:

Griffon Vulture are evident throughout, and in August passage of Short-toed Eagle and Honey Buzzard will be evident anywhere, as will common Alpine species such as Alpine Chough, Water Pipit, Red Kite and Crag Martin. Here are some sites which offer a good chance of some Pyrenean specialities:

·          Col de Tourmalet: An excellent site for high alpine species such as Alpine Accentor (early summer) and Snowfinch, which flock around the car park, allowing stunningly close views.

·          Vallée d’Ossau: The site for Lammergeier sightings with birds observed throughout its length. Golden Eagles hold territory on the steep rocky outcrops to the right of the valley. Rock Bunting favour the scrubby area at the entrance to the valley. Excellent for butterflies even in late Aug, with Scarce Copper, Mountain Ringlet, Camberwell Beauty, Rock Grayling and Escher’s Blue.

·          Barrage de Gloriettes: Sitauted in the Heas Valley, the rocks around the barrage are excellent for Rock Bunting whilst Rock Thrush nest on the boulders above. A Lammergeier nest is the real highlight if you can find it: stand on the dam and look up to the vast mountain-side above the reservoir in line with the dam. A pale brown fissure in the rock is the general area, look for a small recess in the rock and beware the bird will appear tiny at first! Excellent for butterflies including Iolas Blue, Queen of Spain & Marbled & Red-Underwing Skipper.

Daily Summaries:

Day 1: La Brenne:

We drove for most of the day towards Mezieres-en-Brenne in the Indre region and that evening set out into the Brenne for our meal, stopping en-route at our first étang, Gabrieu. Almost immediately we were greeted with four Cattle Egrets, obviously part of a post breeding flock. A Black-necked Grebe, a breeding speciality of these lakes, was on the water and best of all were the fishing Whiskered Terns hovering brilliant close to us revealing their short tails, grey belly and contrasting white cheek. A Marsh Harrier was an expected addition to the list. That evening we dined overlooking the Étang Gabriére, where even as we ate, an Osprey flew in to take a fish and, as dusk settled over the lake, Night Herons came flying in to roost, two juveniles circling the restaurant right over our heads before moving off.

Day 2: La Brenne:

In overcast weather we arrived at the Chérine reserve, where Cirl Buntings sang from wires and Fan-tailed Warblers called their “Zzit” from overhead. At the visitor centre, an incredible diminutive European Pond Tortoise was found sitting on a dried up bank. The drought has affected the water life of the Brenne much this year. We moved onto the hide, where some impatient scanning of the many Grey Herons almost immediately yielded a striking Purple Heron, sitting plumb in the open at the edge of a reed bed. The bird gave a great fishing display before flying off: the incredible snake like neck, colouring and plumes make this a wonderful creature to observe: a long-awaited lifer and a stunning species. We moved onto the Étang de Beauregard. A short walk showed passage in full swing; a post-breeding flock of Black-winged Stilts and huge numbers of Whiskered Terns including many young birds. Butterflies were beginning to emerge and we were able to photograph Great-Banded Grayling, Sooty Copper and Short-tailed Blue. We finished the day at a campsite on the Étang de Bellebouche.

Day 3: La Brenne:

The following morning we left the van for a pre-breakfast walk. The woods held another lifer – Short-toed Treecreeper, which finally uttered a call which gave it away. Large numbers of Pied Flycatchers were moving through, while three Hoopoes were an unexpected bonus here. A Purple Heron, as if to prove its status as an easily found bird, flew in from the nearby heronry to start fishing. We passed the Étang de Gabriére again towards lunchtime, picking up another Osprey and, totally unexpectedly, a rather early flock of Great White Egrets, presumably from Eastern Europe or dispersing from the colonies on the Atlantic Coast. As we passed on, we met a flock of 80+ Cattle Egrets and a another Purple Heron flew past. At the Étang Massé things were very quiet except for a criminally brief Southern White Admiral which flew over and a single Water Rail. Then onto the Étang Blizon, where we met our first birder of the trip. He told us, somewhat to our disbelief, that a pair of the locally rare Squacco Heron had appeared just up the road – and so off we went on our first foreign "twitch". Five minutes later we had them staring down the scope barely ten feet away; an incredible species with a colour I’ve never seen in nature before. Also on Blizon were at least three more Purple Herons, many Great White Egrets, the ubiquitous Whiskered Tern, Marsh Harrier, Kingfisher and distant Honey Buzzard. Content with our luck, we stopped briefly at the Étang Foucault, picking up Grizzled Skipper, before heading back to Bellebouche. Stopping by an un-named étang off the D21 for a flyover Purple Heron, we found another adult sitting literally at our feet, swallowing fish. This was too much, so we left.

Day 4: La Brenne:

Our final day in the Brenne was somewhat quieter. A woodland walk in the Foret Lancosme was typically frustrating, with both Black and Middle-spotted Woodpeckers heard but not seen. Butterflies fared better, with Map Butterfly and Purple Emperor putting on a good show. A single Great White Egret was seen on a small lake, while at the dried up Étang Cordreau a pale male Honey Buzzard gave cracking views while Foucault held a huge flock of Cattle Egrets. At dusk we did a farewell trip to Blizon, watching the egrets fly in to roost, and clocking a Tawny Owl on the return trip.

Day 5: Lot Valley at Cahors:

Today we moved down towards the Lot Valley at Cahors, picking up several Honey Buzzards as we passed through the Dordogne valley. The Lot Valley is a fabulous contrast from Brenne with its imposing cliffs and hilltop castles. At dusk, another lifer sprang out of the gloom in the form of some Alpine Swifts, immediately recognisable even in silhouette by their huge size, that began hawking close overhead.

Day 6: Midi-Pyrenées - Pyrenees:

Next morning we ended our brief stay to head for the Pyrenees, but a brief roadside stop provided us with some excellent butterfly photographs – a colony of Adonis Blue, Chalk-hill Blue, Heath Fritillary and more Great Banded Grayling. Our journey became, naturally, more spectacular on reaching the Pyrenees but nowhere were we reminded more of how easy it is to “find your own” in this huge country that at a Aire in the Midi-Pyrenees. In five minutes, we had found Large Tortoiseshell, Glanville, Knapweed, Heath and Pearl-bordered Fritillaries and a Cranberry Blue. Two hours later, sitting at a café at St Marie de Campan, we watched the first of many Griffon Vultures overhead while drinking coffee. That night, as we set up camp, a fantastic adult Golden Eagle came over the hill brow, landed twice, then drifted off. This incredible raptor is too often very distant but as it flew now you could see the golden mane of feathers behind the fearsome bill.

Day 7: Col de Tourmalet, Pyrenées:

Our first full day in these amazing mountains saw us push the Camper up to the Col de Tourmalet, where we began a walk towards the Pic du Midi. High altitude specialists, the ringlets, were in force, with Spanish Brassy and Gavarnie Ringlets being photographed. Water Pipits are common here, and mixed flocks of Chough & Alpine Chough were overhead. As the day went on, Griffon Vultures began to emerge in numbers, some criminally close Honey Buzzards passed overhead, as did a flock of 15 Red Kites. Our first Marmots, amusing creatures, bounded between the boulders. The highlight came, however, on our return, where a flock of nine Snowfinches worked their way up the hill towards us until they were foraging between the tripod legs and playing havoc with the scope’s close-focusing abilities. A fantastic first day, but all the time we had been scanning for a bird which has become a legend despite never being seen – the Lammergeier.

Day 8: Vallée d’Ossau, Pyrenées:

Cloud was depressing low as we headed towards Gavarnie, and only towards midday did the cloud recede into the valley below us. The cirque looked moody in its shroud, so we headed into the Valley d’Ossaue, where huge, sheer cliffs rose either side inviting the inevitably fruitless search for wallcreepers. Many Griffon Vultures were flying, and Chalk-hill Blue and Clouded Yellow butterflies were commonplace. WE drove slowly up the tortuous road until suddenly the sky darkened. With a great crash of breaks we all piled out because right above us, on unbelievably long narrow wings was an adult Lammergeier, head dropping, wedge-tailed, gliding effortlessly away from us, more like some futuristic glider than a bird. We watched it wheel into a flock of Choughs, looking tiny in comparison, before it vanished over the hill, re-appearing at intervals without once beating its wings, almost as if in slow motion. An hour later, we watched a pair of juvenile Golden Eagles talon locking and food passing to one another on a huge outcrop, while an adult soared behind us. Red-backed Shrike, Cuckoo, Honey Buzzard and Dipper were just fillers before the Lammergeier came soaring across the valley again, its head turning back a forth, presumably looking for carrion or tortoises to drop! An incredible day, and the fulfilment of a lifelong birding ambition.

Day 9: Gavarnie & Vallée d’Ossau, Pyrenées:

With worse weather than yesterday we decided to walk the Cirque de Gavarnie today. Snow-melt was pouring down the sheer walls and crashing through the village due to the late rains. All was quiet except for a single Large Wall Brown and, much later, the long-awaited appearance of some Chamois – our first ever – standing precariously on a mountain slope. Griffons and a flock of Serin made up the rest until a brief stop in the mouth of the Ossaue Valley yielded several Marmots and a Rock Bunting, which took flight showing white tail sides.

Day 10: Heas Valley, Pyrenées:

Today started off quietly in glorious sunlight with a photogenic Marmot as we made our way up the Heas Valley to the Barrage de Gloriettes. A huge passage of Pied Flycatchers was coming through, as were many Serins and warblers. Griffon Vultures flew so close you could see their eyes, three Honey Buzzards passed and a cracking male Rock Bunting appeared at our feet. Arriving at the Barrage de Gloriettes, it seemed that the good weather had brought butterflies out of cover and in no time we had seen and photographed Queen of Spain & Dark Green Fritillary, Iolas Blue, Wall Brown, Marbled & Red-Underwing Skipper and several others. Then just above us, a family of Rock Thrushes flew in and spent the next hour trying to get good views of us as they sat atop rocks or foraged nearby. At one point a bush nearby was alive with both these birds and Black Redstarts, providing a picture in orange. A short walk provided little more so, in the great heat, we beat a retreat across the Barrage itself where Crag Martins were nesting. Way away on the cliffs a huge bird soared and immediately landed. After fruitless searching of the spot, an orange-maned head with a bony, bearded point caught my attention – an adult Lammergeier at its nest, picked out with the naked eye from ½ a mile away. You cannot exaggerate what it is to have one of the world’s largest, most colourful and charismatic birds of prey sitting in the scope in no hurry to go anywhere. Its amazing orange front and “trousers”, black back and its incredible head complete with neat little beard were all enjoyed. It held us rapt for over an hour as it sat in full view. Eventually we left, and even a cracking Short-toed Eagle close-by was pushed from mind by the impression of this ultimate encounter! That evening we took a walk around our new campsite at Gédre, and expressed mild surprise when another one flew straight overhead as we cooked.

Day 11: Vallée d’Ossau, Pyrenées:

Our last full day in the Pyrenees was like a summary of what it was all about. It began with two Lammergeiers seen briefly from Gédre as we bought shopping. We returned to the Ossaue Valley in broad sunlight, and immediately the butterflies were there – Black-veined White, Escher’s Blue, Rock Grayling, Scarce Copper, White Admiral, Mountain Ringlet and Queen of Spain were all noted or photographed, but the best moment came when a huge Camberwell Beauty fluttered in front of the car. Raptors soon became a feature with Griffon Vulture, the two immature Golden Eagles, two separate Lammergeiers and three Short-toed Eagles, including one perched, all within fifteen minutes! Rock Buntings, Water Pipits, Alpine Choughs, Dipper & Whinchat formed a supporting cast. Once again it was the wallcreeper that got away: next time, a trip to the Hecho Valley is on the cards for this species, though even at its known haunts it proves elusive.

Day 12: Northern Spain:

Time to leave the Pyrenees and head on into Spain. In no time the mountains dropped away leaving the flat expanse of coastal southern France. A single Booted Eagle was, surprisingly, the only one of the holiday while a later stop in Spain produced another Short-toed Eagle and a large flock of Spotless Starlings. We stopped inland of the Santander, and spent the following day quietly exploring the countryside immediately inland of the Cantabria. The promising Embalso de Ebro was incredibly quiet and misty, so we moved on. A brief roadside stop provided, as well as the usual Griffons, a passage of three Short-toed Eagles and a Camberwell Beauty which flew past and tantalisingly disappeared into a dry-stone wall! The rest of the day we saw more of the same, and the following we departed from Santander out across the Bay of Biscay.

Day 13: Bay of Biscay:

The voyage started quietly, and it was only mid-afternoon that the birds began to appear. First was a small flock of Cory’s Shearwater which appeared breath-takingly close alongside the boat. Several flocks followed and a single Balearic Shearwater skimmed past. Later again, two Great Shearwaters appeared under our noses. Half an hour later a jet of water brought us to our feet – a vast Fin Whale, submarine-like, second largest mammal in the world, surfacing repeatedly, barely 200m from the boat edge. A few Arctic Skuas bobbed by and a long-winged, all dark shearwater with dark body was almost certainly a Sooty Shearwater, a frustrating miss on this would-be lifer. Tantalisingly, the huge shearwater flocks began to appear only as the sun was setting – vast rafts of Manx Shearwater with all of the other species there too. As dusk, we could make out in the dark that hundreds of tiny birds were hovering, riding the wave – Storm Petrels. It was an incredible end to a diverse holiday and a brilliant cross-section of France’s diverse wildlife.

Algarve, Portugal: 4^th – 9^th April 2003

Introduction: Apologies for the length of this report, it was initially typed up as a report for the Ramblers Holiday Association and has been as curtailed as possible by me. As is inevitably the case on a walking holiday, similar and limited species are encountered every day and it’s a case of getting what you can. I have detailed sites which either I gained a good knowledge of during my week’s stay or which host some of the region’s specialities.

Logistics: A package holiday to the Algarve, we stayed in Tavira which we recommend as an excellent base from which to explore all coastal sites which the region has to offer. Roads are good and public transport excellent especially the coastal train service. Birding is best done early mornings as even in April, temperatures soar by midday and the birds fall quiet.

Key Sites:

Common birds encountered daily around the orange groves and cork oaks of the Algarve countryside include Bee-eater, Hoopoe, Woodchat Shrike, Azure-winged Magpie, Crested Lark, Nightingale, Crested Tit, Fan-tailed & Sardinian Warbler, Serin and Corn Bunting. Quail occur around farmland plantations and Rock Bunting on scree areas.

Tavira Saltpans & River:

Our adopted site for the week, this area of the Rio Formosa provides all the coastal specialities with the star birds including Greater Flamingo and Audouin’s Gull. In addition, hundreds of Kentish Plover, Black-winged Stilt and Avocet in addition to passage waders such as Wood and Curlew Sandpiper, Little & Temminck’s Stint and Red-necked Phalarope make it an attractive spot. Three pairs of Bee-eater next adjacent to the town itself. Common Waxbill occur here though keep a low profile. White Stork is abundant in the town and have taken to nesting on disused industrial chimneys. The bus station is an excellent place to get to grips with Pallid Swift, which nest in the eaves here.

Quinta do Marim Reserve:

The hide is cited as one of the best places for Purple Gallinule in Portugal and we can bear witness to this. Caspian Tern is also regular on the pans in addition to other saltpan species such as Greater Flamingo, Kentish Plover and Audouin’s Gull. Turtle Dove favour the pine plantations.

Daily Summaries:

April 4^th: Tavira & Walk from Zimbaal Summit to Almargen:

Awaking in the morning, the air alive with Swifts and House Martins, while a Serin alighted on rooftops. A single Cattle Egret passed close overhead. After breakfast with our group, there was a gasp of joy minutes later when our first White Stork came soaring in over the buildings of urban Tavira to alight on its nest atop a crumbling brick chimney. Yellow-legged Gulls and our first wader, a Common Sandpiper, were noted before we set off. We sped out of the town, vast orange groves lit up around us, orchards and acacia scrub, cork oak woodlands and savannah, losing count of the White Storks atop their precarious nests. Arriving near the summit of Zimbarl, a Woodchat Shrike posed nearby whilst a trilling call from some trees proved to be a Crested Tit. Some Azure-winged Magpies has been seen from the coach and soon one stunning bird appeared at close range beside the road – a resplendent lifer. A pair flew out of the trees, and it was not long before more were flying overhead. Nightingales were singing from the scrub and Serin displaying overhead. Woodlarks flew overhead in display. A little farther along the walk a Sardinian Warbler rose high out of the gorse. Moving down towards the dry river valleys, a pair of Red-legged Partridge were flushed from the bank, while Corn Buntings sang their tuneless “zizz” from wires overhead. We stopped for a break by the tiny and ramshackle farmyard where a Dappled White butterfly flew around at close quarters. A striking Spanish Festoon was the highlight and much better than illustrated.

A strange bubbling call attracted our attention a little later on in the walk and on the far side of the valley, the rainbow dart of a Bee-eater was glimpsed. Seconds later the bird I had most wanted to see was facing into the scope, a brilliant jewelled dot in a distant tree but still a fine sight. It remained only a second, but we were sure to see others. A Crested Lark, another lifer, alighted at our feet as we moved on. Four more Bee-eaters passed quickly overhead. At our lunch stop atop a dry river valley, a Quail started calling though predictably out of sight. We passed into a beautiful flower-lit valley and it was only a few minutes before an unmistakable “hoo-hoo-hoo” call carried across the warm farmland; the source - a striking Hoopoe atop a bush, nibbling at a fly in the middle of the scope. We passed into the shade of the cork oak woodlands typical to this part of the world. More Azure-winged Magpies posed in the dappled shadows, and a pair of Hoopoes beat their bat-like flight through the trees. Our last stretch of the walk saw us meandering through brilliantly-fertile orange groves, hearing our first Cetti`s Warbler and seeing another Bee-eater buzz overhead. Nightingales were everywhere, and a Cattle Egret flew overhead. A pair of vocal Black-winged Stilts came flying along the path towards us, their vermillion legs trailing behind their delicate bodies. At the very last leg of our walk, close to the tiny village of Almargen, a small game bird was surprised on the path and took of with rapid wing beats before diving deftly behind a hedge. I knew it had been a Quail when the unmistakable “whit-whit-whit” started up close-by. I was amazed how easily I had chanced upon this master skulker. Minutes later, another took off in flight! A tiny Fan-tailed Warbler, our fifth new bird of the day, made a charismatic appearance minutes after.

Returning back, as the others trudged off to the hotel at Tavira, we were scanning the mudflats of the river. Within minutes, we located the dainty form of a Kentish Plover standing on the shore. Others followed suit, and the adults were striking birds. Another lifer and one missed several times before. Further scanning made we realize that the flats were alive with well over 70 Kentish Plovers, 20 Sanderling with a good variety of the commoner waders as well as Turnstones and Common Sandpipers. A scan further afield detected the longer, decurved bill and larger size of a Curlew Sandpiper amid the Dunlin, while a distant wader resembling a greenshank but with a short bill and prominent eyestripe proved to be a Wood Sandpiper. A tiny wader nearby initially proved difficult to identify until I realised the brown, mottled back markings and green-yellow legs meant that we were watching our first Temminck`s Stint. A brilliant end to a classic introductory day’s birding.

April 5^th: Tavira Saltpans & Rio Formosa:

Today we awoke to explore the saltpans on our doorstep in Tavira. Within minutes, we located another pair of White Storks atop another Tavira chimney, while delightful Black-winged Stilts and Kentish Plovers fed at our feet. Soon, amid the common waders, I had picked up the small, diminutive form of a Little Stint, which gave stunning views to within ten feet. Sanderling and Common Sandpiper also frequented the pans, and the air was alive with the sound of many flying waders. Soon we began to see Avocets and many more Black-winged Stilts, soon losing count of either species as they flew above our heads in noisy spring display. A massive shout went up and there was a bird so graven in the childhood memories that it was as if I was back at Slimbridge – I was watching the vast, tightly-clumped and tawdry pink mass that is a flock of Greater Flamingos. It was a fantastic moment. Even though I had expected them, there was a total surreality to their wild presence now. Charismatic and comical, their antics on landing, stretching their legs forward way before landing, were brilliant. Moving on through the pans we marvelled at how incredibly alive the place was with the thousands of waders. Crested Larks flew overhead and occasionally landed, as did Sardinian Warblers and Serins. Suddenly a wader flew close by and began swimming on the water: a dainty Red-necked Phalarope! I was treated to a few thrilled seconds of this bird before it took flight and was not seen again. Another Wood Sandpiper slept nearby and I spotted, atop a sandy ridge, the blood-billed form of an Audouin`s Gull, more of which started appearing with alarming regularity. Within the next hour I made what must have been a pretty phenomenal count of 73 of these birds, most in a large flock off towards the coast. The birds came thick and fast, with a pair of Spanish Yellow Wagtails appearing on a island nearby, in the company of a single Bar-tailed Godwit. As we moved on, a flock of 11 more Greater Flamingos appeared at even closer range, these ones in fantastic pink attire!

We moved away from the frenzied pans and onto the estuary of the Ria Formosa. Sandwich Terns were fishing in front of us, and a Little Tern, which was fishing at our feet and giving the most confiding views. Crested Larks were at their most abundant. Nearing midday we were approaching Santa Lucia when suddenly the amazingly vibrant forms of two Bee-eaters wheeled into view, dazzlingly bright over the olive groves before alighting on wires. Finally, these Mediterranean gems were revealed; the birds taking bees . Then they took flight again on brilliant triangular wings. A magical display! A Nightingale piped up as we neared the town, and some Fan-tailed Warblers flew overhead “zitting” loudly. Birds became scarce for the rest of the walk as we undertook an uneventful hike along the beach. Two hours later, we took the boat back towards Tavira, where on alighting, a Whimbrel flew by. The pans on the return to the town were alive with Curlew Sandpipers and more Little Stints, which in the company of more Yellow Wagtails and Black-winged Stilts made for good viewing. I was reasonably tired by the heat on our return to the hotel, and wound the day down with little watches of the delightful Kentish Plovers on the hotel doorstep.

April 6^th: Tavira & Walk from Sao Bras de Alportel:

After emerging into another sublimely hot morning, I stood outside the station watching the Swifts flicking up to their nests under the eaves only to dart away again. The light was excellent, and after a few minutes of getting my eye in, I soon began to notice the paler, browner swifts with unmistakably scaled bellies and pale faces – these were, of course, Pallid Swifts. Once you looked closely, I began to realize that at least half if not most of these birds were this species!

White Stork and Woodchat Shrike were located as we left Sao Bras de Alportel. The birding was very quiet, with the brief advent of two Bee-eaters as they passed high overhead, obviously fresh on migration from Africa. As we approached some cork oaks, a pair of “crested” larks take flight, showing a plain underwing – Thekla Larks. In the shade of the cork oaks, a dappled Hoopoe shot out of a tree and away. More quiet walking continued until near lunch, when arriving by a swampy area Nightingales started up at close range. Approaching carefully, and with the singing only feet away, I carefully scanned all of the lower branches, and there was the bird singing in full view, its soft brown body vibrating to the song. Cetti’s Warblers took up the chorus but remained unseen, whereas a Willow Warbler here was my only of the week. Fan-tailed Warblers performed their enigmatic song flight overhead, and best of all a Large Tortoiseshell butterfly flew past. Spanish Festoons in all their splendour were even more common. Another two Bee-eaters flew quickly through, adding their surreal splash of colour to a quiet day. The sole highlight was the location of a second Nightingale in bushes at point blank range, and on nearing Sao Bras a second Hoopoe flushed out of scrub. Butterflies were slightly better represented, with a Green Hairstreak butterfly letting itself be photographed, as well as a Black-eyed Blue.

The best birding was, ironically, reserved for our return. A speedy change saw me returning to the Tavira Saltpans. Almost immediately I was surrounded by Black-winged Stilts and Kentish Plovers, and only minutes later Bee-eaters were airborne above us, catching flies over Tavira’s rooftops, and suddenly pulling up to the sandbanks around us before moving off again. It is a defining moment to watch the sun catching the top of a bee-eater’s back as it twists in the air for a bee before flying on. Crested Lark and Sardinian Warbler, Serin and Corn Bunting soon joined the day list, closely followed by an epic sixty two Greater Flamingo, all roosting on their one specially-selected salt pan. Avocets swam and Yellow Wagtails alighted at our feet, this time joined by a single Wheatear. Curlew Sandpipers and Little Stints fed around us, the latter unbelievably close and dainty. Further out on the pans, a single Audouin’s Gull added to the exotic tally, while the pans rang to the calls of waders.

April 7^th: Tavira Saltpans:

The great ambition of visiting the Castro Verde for its bustards was sadly crushed today, despite much remonstrating with the forces that be. On approaching the White Stork nest today we noticed that a pair of Spotless Starlings had taken up residence in their nest. On the pans, we noticed the rainbow flash of Bee-eaters sat flush against the bank, brilliant beyond words in the heat. We were given that ultimate view as a pair, bolt upright next to each other, swayed on the same branch, filling the scope. Every last detail was taken in, down to the brilliant red eye. No pictures we have seen since have portrayed the intense beauty of these birds. All of the birds we had seen before were present today, whereas the appearance of two Greenshank was a new event. We walked out farther today to where we had seen the phalarope, but it appeared not to be there. As we stood in the heat there was a vast cacophony of sound, and sixty Greater Flamingos, twenty Kentish Plovers, fifty Black-winged Stilts and many others all took to the air at once. The cause was a Black Kite as it drifted lazily overhead. As we returned, I noticed our elusive Red-necked Phalarope had returned, and this time for everyone to see. It appeared to be in summer plumage with a partial orange-red ring along the neck. We returned to the pans in the evening, and amid the glorious hordes of birds we relocated the phalarope, swimming close by and feeding along the shore. Another magical moment as we marvelled at the muddled identity of this swimming wader!

April 8^th: Tavira & Local Walk:

A local walk from Tavira today saw more beautiful orchards, groves and cork oak woodlands, and very early on a stunning Azure-winged Magpie posed amid the trees. A Fan-tailed Warbler gave excellent views of its wonderfully streaked, quirky form as it perched in a tree for a while. Sardinian Warblers and Serins were present and a pair of Bee-eaters flew overhead. At lunchtime, stopping by a waterfall, a Cetti’s Warbler blasted nearby but remained unseen, while Grey Wagtails and a Blackcap were new birds for the holiday. Corn Buntings jazzed from exposed perches, and a Hoopoe called. The afternoon’s walk took us past a commercial orchard, where the call of a Quail started up close by. A flock of Azure-winged Magpies which flew close overhead, and minutes later a Nightingale glimpsed as it blasted its fluting song from a thicket. A Woodchat Shrike was, as ever, sentient on wires. Towards the end of the walk, a Tree Pipit turned up in a field, where a resplendent brown horse cantered around an orchard.

In the early evening I took my first ever “guided walk”, showing several of our group members the saltpans. Bee-eaters were, as ever, captivating, gleaming on the sand banks and calling overhead as they nimbly caught their namesake prey. A Spotless Starling was sharing the White Stork nest again. Yellow Wagtails and Crested Larks were at our feet, and soon we were watching the sixty-two Greater Flamingos once more. Amongst the teeming Black-winged Stilts and Avocets, we found a single Whimbrel and a little later two winter-plumaged Spotted Redshanks and a single Greenshank. On the nearer pits Curlew Sandpipers and Little Stints were coming into summer plumage, whilst Fan-tailed Warblers song-flighted overhead. As we wandered around the pits, a strange wader flew by: a Stone Curlew, the first time I had ever seen this bizarre bird in flight. We wandered back through the salty haze, warbled by Serins and Corn Buntings whilst a Common Waxbill from the naturalised population was another interesting addition.

April 9^th: Tavira & Local Walk:

As expected, a virtual repetition of the week’s birding with a few newbies. A pair of Bee-eaters passed overhead, the odd Woodchat Shrike perched openly and the commoner species were all seen, not excluding the glorious Azure-winged Magpies or the song-flighting Fan-tailed Warblers. In birdless conditions, we savoured the stunningly blue sky, warm fragrant countryside and the plentiful Spanish Festoon butterflies. The only new tick came just before lunch when a Little Owl flew into a tree. Some extensive scrutiny of branches later revealed it sitting within the foliage. Our walk took us down through a valley, where, overlooking a scree slope amid the cork oaks I noticed a Rock Bunting alight on a tree nearby. This was a stunning new bird and one I had not expected to see at this low altitude. It was singing from a thorn tree, but soon moved off. Seconds later a Crested Tit called and appeared at close range. During the last section of the walk, the close singing of Nightingales eventually produced excellent views of this diminutive bird as it sang from a low branch. Corn Buntings were singing their scratchy song from open trees. A large passage of hirundies was passing and a glint of orange, a navy cap, and a long, black forked tail and rump caught my attention: a Red-rumped Swallow. Its long, black forked tail and streaking underneath made it obvious even from underneath, as if quickly sped off overhead – leaving me wondering how many more had done the same! And so it was farewell to the saltpans. In rapid succession, Spotless Starling, White Stork, Bee-eaters, Yellow Wagtail, Crested Lark, Serin and sixty Greater Flamingo had been seen, whilst Black-winged Stilts, Kentish Plovers, Little Stints and thirty three Curlew Sandpiper all made an appearance or several. It had been a wonderful week discovering the secrets of the Ria Formosa, so with a farewell look at the bee-eaters, resplendent in the afternoon sun, I left.

April 10^th: Quinta do Marim Natural Park:

Today, we walked through Tavira’s quiet streets to the station, where we sat on the platform, watching some Pallid Swifts and waiting for then train to Olhao, a little further up the Algarve coast. Some time later, we arrived at the Quinta do Marim Natural Park. We set out through a mixed habitat of coniferous dunes and then salt pans. In the pines was soft purring of Turtle Doves, and after a short wait a bird did a short display flight. Kentish Plovers were running about on the flats, and out on a spit some Sandwich Terns were sharing it with abundant gulls. Another massive tern, revealing a mighty red-orange bill was a Caspian Tern, the largest of its family in the world and a cracking lifer. A second later flew in join it. Greater Flamingos were out on the pans in full breeding plumage. The entire flock took flight and circled over our heads, legs trailing, glowing pink. Some minutes later, we arrived at a hide overlooking a freshwater pool. A pair of Cattle Egrets in full breeding finery were sitting low amongst the reeds, and piles of Freshwater Terrapins were happily piled onto logs. Where was our target bird? Time and time again we scanned the reed edge, until Dad detected a large movement at their edge. Soon, a vast magenta moorhen, with cartoon-bright red legs and a vast red bill and enamel-red plate on its head emerged: a Purple Gallinule. The bird was working a reed which was clasped between extremely long toes. The iridescent deep purple-blue sheen on the bird was incredible. For five minutes we gorged ourselves on this wonderful exotic, before it merged, quickly, back into the reeds. A fantastic conclusion to a great week’s birding.