EXTREMADURA - JANUARY 3-10, 2008
Pico de Villuercas, Extremedura- © Liz Macdonald, 2008
Introduction: This was an amazing week spent in a part of Europe which must hold by far one of the greatest concentrations of awe-inspiring species. We connected with all target species for this time of year plus two or three outstanding bonuses and were exceptionally lucky in gaining excellent views of nearly every species seen, including potentially-difficult plains birds and of course, raptors. Winter is a fantastic time in which to get to grips with the resident species as they are often very active and heat-haze is non-existent, making for great scope views. The spectacle of Cranes, however, single-handed justifies any trip to this region at this time.
Logistics: We were fortunate in having Martin Kelsey as our guide and to stay at his home, Casa Rural El Recuerdo, throughout the week, where we were brilliantly hosted entertained by his family and guests. Martin's knowledge of the region if faultless as are his field-skills; in a week's birding, we only gained a few spots ahead of him! His website can be viewed at www.birdingextremadura.com and comes with highest recommendations. There is so much literature available now on Extremedura that navigating the area should not be a problem. It is clear that Trujillo is the ideal centre for any trip planned here in any season, as all specialities will never be more than an hour’s drive away.
Key Sites:
With such a wealth of information on the web and perhaps the greatest density of trip reports for any one region, I will detail below only sites which can afford excellent views of specialities and which have either not been made clear in the past or are relatively unknown. These sites apply to winter birding only but in the case of residents, especially plains species, there will inevitably be some overlap. Some species, such as Azure-winged Magpie, Crested Lark, Hoopoe, Cattle Egret etc were encountered daily and will only be detailed if present in exceptional numbers. Below, I have also detailed a target species list for cross-reference.
1. Rice Fields around Madrigalejo
In terms of sheer spectacle, this is the site for wintering cranes in this part of Extremedura where an estimated 11,000 or more come each night to roost in this area. In order of sites visited. The fields around the little village of Palazuelo, off the EX-354, hold numerous wintering Red Kite, Spanish Sparrow, Red Avadavat and of course, Crane. Where the unmarked road from Palazuelo crosses the Rio Ruercas, this is the only site where we encountered Common Waxbill. Little Bittern appear to winter here as does Penduline Tit. Azure-winged Magpie are very common as is Fan-tailed Warbler. The drier fields around Vegas Altas were extremely productive with Great Bustard, Little Bustard, Black-bellied Sandgrouse and Calandra Lark all encountered within a tiny area. The Madrigalejo railway station holds a good number of wintering Stone Curlew, 40-60 on our visit, which are found on the arid, stony ground looking out to the countryside, with the station behind you; drive beyond the buildings and park. The evening is best spent at the Casas Del Hito where up to 10,000 Common Crane fly to roost each evening. At the end of the track here, Black-winged Kite is regular and Great White Egret was seen flying to roost on both occasions. The ditches here should not be overlooked as they hold good wintering concentrations of White-spotted Bluethroat and Cetti’s Warbler. An exceptional roost of Cattle Egret is also noteworthy further down this road.
2. Pico de Villuercas
The most reliable wintering site in Extremedura for Alpine Accentor as it is the highest peak in its Sierra and birds appear to fly straight across from the adjacent Gredos. The birds are gregarious and in January 2008 appeared to favour the scree rocks around the bend in the road just below the radar station, but were also heard calling from the summit. Also encountered here was an overwintering Wallcreeper, 6th record for Extremedura, which may or may not be a regular occurrence. Blue Rock Thrush is also present.
3. Santa Marta de Madagascar Road
An extraordinarily productive area is accessed off the N-521 Trujillo-Caceres road towards Santa Marta de Madagascar. At the first bend in the road, where it bends sharply left and you have dehesa to your left and stonier steppe to your right, park and explore the tracks. This is fantastic site for Great Bustard and flocks of wintering Little Bustard as well as both Black-bellied and in particular, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse. Calandra & Thekla Lark were also seen as was Great-spotted Cuckoo.
4. Monfrague NP
An exceptional site. Black Vulture can be easily encountered and Griffon Vulture is unmissable. Rock Bunting and Blue Rock Thrush are also readily encountered, especially at the amazing Penefalcon. The Portilla de Tietar is justifiably famous for Eagle Owl and Spanish Eagle. The owls in winter, as in spring, roost on the large rocky outpost across the river from the view-point and can literally be anywhere. Between September and March, however, they utter their amazing call which can help locate them, and often perch on the very top against the skyline as dusk approaches. The eagles roost behind the rocky outcrop and can often be seen soaring above the viewpoint. A wealth of information regarding the Monfrague is readily available online.
5. Embalse de Arroycampo
Another fantastic and well-documented site. Purple Gallinule is evident throughout and vocal. In winter, the reservoir holds Great Bittern and Penduline Tit though both of these can be extremely elusive: The area around the hides is particularly productive: key is borrowed from the Information Centre. Here we found Squacco Heron, Penduline Tit and Bluethroat in proximity to Hide 2. As with all sites, spring will see this area hold a much greater range of species.
Target Species
Below is a very brief selection of in-demand wintering and resident target species that it is good to try and see in Extremadura in winter, with advice as to where we encountered them and if relevant, background. Many thanks to Martin for supplying or confirming much of this information, which we tested in the field.
Spanish Imperial Eagle:
The quintessential speciality and an awesome bird, the site at Portilla de Tietar is the best in Extremadura despite other sites being in the public domain. The birds nest, as of 2007, behind the rocky outcrop and not in front, as was the case before 2006, which means that whilst settled views are harder to achieve, birds are very regular here in flight. Recommended over the more distant Torrejon El Rubio site etc.
Bonelli’s Eagle:
This strange creature is probably the trickiest to locate. In winter, a pair were both seen by us and another pair of birders hunting over the Penefalcon, Monfrague. Birds nest in the Monfrague and can be regularly encountered from many of the viewpoints, including Mirador de la Bascula. The Rio Almonte valley south of Monroy is apparently fantastic for this species overhead in Spring.
Common Crane:
Outside of the rice fields area we did not encounter this species in great numbers or with much frequency. Any area in the vicinity of Madrigalejo, particularly the fields adjacent to Palazuelo, the Rio Ruercas and Vegas Altas will produce huge numbers of these striking birds, but the roost at the Casas Del Hito will see thousands flying to roost and gathering in the adjacent fields; a spectacle possibly unequalled elsewhere in Europe.
Great Bustard:
A widespread species but strongly favouring certain areas of pseudo-steppe, such as the Santa Marta de Magascar road which can afford fantastic views of the species. On both the occasions that we visited, and from the feedback from other birders, the area described under Key Sites was fantastic for this species with up to 40 birds seen both flying and feeding in winter flocks on deck. This site remains excellent throughout the year. Belen Plain, the Zorita Steppes etc all hold good numbers and much information is available on these.
Little Bustard:
Again, the area of the Santa Marta de Magascar road described in Key Sites gave us, on both occasions, a flock of 50+ wintering Little Bustards and this was confirmed as a very regular site by other visiting birders. Whilst dispersive, this site remains good the species in spring.
Black-bellied Sandgrouse:
A more widespread species that pin-tailed, we encountered what was clearly a abnormally-large feeding flock in the more arid fields immediately adjacent to the village of Vegas Altas, in the rice fields area. We also encountered it in much smaller numbers on the Santa Marta de Madascar road at the bustard site.
Pin-tailed Sandgrouse:
Scarcer than its relative, pin-tailed was located in good numbers along the Santa Marta de Magascar road at the bustard site. Listen for the Guillemot-like call, utterly different from black-bellied. Flocks were initially located in flight overhead but gave good views feeding on deck as well. In winter it is impossible to locate drinking pools for this species with the abundance of water, but as spring progresses, regular sites do become available and local Spanish birders may be of assistance here.
Great-spotted Cuckoo:
This beautiful species arrived incredibly early and can be present, as we witnessed, from early January though more-typically, mid-January. We witnessed a pair at the Santa Marta de Magascar site and apparently, this is where the first birds are located every year. This area remains excellent for them, apparently, into the breeding season.
Eagle Owl:
Though widespread and with 2-3 pairs around Trujillo, the popular site at the Portilla de Tietar probably remains the best. In winter, birds start calling as dusk approaches and if co-operative, can be found against the skyline of the Tietar. However, if not, they will be calling from a prominent post further down the rocks and will require luck and amazing binoculars to locate. A popular bird, there may be some local Spanish birders on hand to help with this one. Trying to pick one up in daylight, despite its size, is extremely difficult due to the deceptively large area in which this species has to sit.
Alpine Accentor:
A species that most visiting birders, I would imagine, are not aware is on offer, this requires a drive of an hour and a quarter to the Pico de Villuercas where though elusive, a regular wintering flock of 12-14 birds or more can be located in the vicinity of the military radar station.
Penduline Tit:
Although unlucky with seeing this species, birds were present both at the Rio Ruercas adjacent to Palazuelo, calling from the reedy fringes here, and also at the Embalse de Arroycampo where birds were heard both in proximity to the Hides and also from adjacent to the main road where there is a particular high concentration of nesting White Stork. Considered much less elusive at this site in Spring, however.
Spanish Sparrow:
A surprisingly low-profile species in summer, by some accounts, vast flocks of this attractive species can be observed around the rice-fields, particularly in the vicinity of Palazuelo, in winter, where they associate with Red Avadavats and Tree Sparrow amongst others.
Daily Summaries:
3rd January:
After having settled into the fantastic Casa Rural El Recuerdo the night before, we set off early morning with Martin but not before enjoying a little garden birding, consisting of several Azure-winged Magpie, Southern Grey Shrike, Spotless Starling and a cracking Hoopoe.
After a cloudy drive towards the rice fields the sun soon broke through a glorious, crisp winter weather ensued and on the drive south from Trujillo we enjoyed our first White Storks, Cattle Egrets and a couple of cranes. Around Palazuelo, leaf-like flocks of Spanish Sparrow perched up by the road, our first proper encounter with this smart, punchy-looking sparrow, and attractive Red Avadavats, a naturalised species here, were abundant in flocks. Red Kites sailed overhead and we heard for the first time the bugling sounds of Common Crane as they drifted overhead. A nearby stop held Snipe, Greenshank and a Marsh Harrier whilst I espied a female Dartford Warbler adjacent to a nearby ditch. All the time, hundreds of Common Cranes flushed up from beside the car or strutted and fed in the fields; as near as a perfect design as it is possible to find in nature.
We then moved on to stop at the River Ruercas a little beyond Palazuelo, where things took off. Azure-winged Magpies by the dozen flashed through the trees, Fan-tailed Warblers bounce overhead and five Common Waxbill came zooming past, one settling to allow scope views of this, our second naturalised passerine of the day. A Black Kite, a very rare winter visitor, also gave excellent views overhead. As we watched smart Bramblings feeding in a mixed finch flock and gained excellent views of confiding Spanish Sparrows, I picked up a raptor with the naked eye and immediately recognised its unmistakeable jizz -a very long tail and wings curving inwards at the base - as that of a Bonelli’s Eagle. Scoping the bird, though distant, I was able to make out the white back patch as well as its goshawk-like plumage underneath. Suddenly Martin called Little Bittern and we had excellent flight views of a striking male, truly tiny, as it headed past us and away - a much anticipated species and our last European heron. Fantastic. I then picked up what was clearly a Black Vulture at some distance in association with some Griffon Vultures but though the views were distinctive, they were too distant to appreciate the sheer magnitude of this vast raptor. After a relaxed lunch on Martin’s considerately-paced deckchairs overlooking the Sierra Brava Reservoir, we moved onto the drier fields around the village of Vegas Altas.
There was a glorious afternoon light here and stopping for a female Hen Harrier, itself worthy of attention, enabled me to pick up six Black-bellied Sandgrouse, another new species of a new family, as they sped across the sunlit fields, flashing black, ochre-orange and white alternately. Soon Martin located another two flying and, pinning them in the scope, we got excellent scope views of a pair as they foraged furtively in the stubble and were able to enjoy their many subtle markings. At the next stop, up to 36 or more of these birds wheeled, shining, over green fields and were almost voted bird of the day when 18 Great Bustard were picked up by Martin. At first unwilling to have “distant” views, I needn’t have worried for with the striking light, these massive, stately creatures stood out a mile. At first distant, they soon raised their tails and marched downhill towards us, turning from a clumsy foraging creature into the breathtaking spectacle you see in the photographs - truly amazing birds and hard to take your eyes off. Martin then pulled out a series of great spots, from the ghostly male Hen Harrier that floated past, a truly wonderful bird, to two Little Bustards which flashed white as they flew in but then resolved themselves into rather disappointing figures on the ground. Corn Buntings were everywhere and soon our first Calandra Larks, far larger than expected, were rasping their call as they flew overhead. Two more distant Black Vulture cemented the overpowering spectacle, but ultimately the bustard and sandgrouse captivated all.
Moving on reluctantly towards Casas Del Hito after this amazing spell, we encountered Tree Sparrow followed by a fantastic road-hopping Hoopoe, one of several noted in the past hour, and a brief and distant Merlin. At the Casas, hundreds of Common Cranes were gathering in fields and flying in, in droves, overhead. We were however diverted by Martin’s call of Black-winged Kite, another stunner, which gave good if slightly distant views as it hovered and swooped over a favoured patch of savannah. A Great White Egret flopped overhead and Scandinavian Greylag Geese joined the throngs of crane in the fields as the air reverberated to the sound of bugling. As we returned along the road, we were arrested by the sight of a hedge entirely whited out with Cattle Egrets as they conversed noisily at dusk and Martin estimated there may have been up to 2000 or more in total. A really dizzying day’s birding and certainly one of our best year abroad.
5th January:
A quiet day today as we spent the morning exploring, in rainy and misty conditions, the area adjacent to Casa Rural in the village of St Clemente. Azure-winged Magpies were again the highlight but closely followed by several good views of flopping Hoopoes and several cracking Sardinian Warblers and a fly-over Hawfinch or two. The evening was spent watching the fantastic annual spectacle of the “arrival of the three kings” in Trujillo, a re-enactment of the Biblical original and a great source of interest for the kids who, unlike in the UK, here have to wait for their arrival before receiving their presents. We were treated to various dinosaur impersonations by Patrick, the youngest member of the pack, as we returned home.
Azure-winged Magpie - St Clemente, Trujillo - Part of a local flock of 60.
6th January:
With a depressing weather outlook, we set off for a small pool immediately adjacent to Trujillo to start things off. After a quick scan, we located a pair of Ferruginous Duck, a relatively rare overwinterer in Extremadura, which, a lifer, proved to be far more striking than expected and a brilliant species. A drake Red-crested Pochard was also enjoyed here as were three Black-winged Stilts before we moved on.
The legandary Sabnta Marta de Magascar road was next and our first stop boded well. Five Hoopoes lined a fence, a Thekla Lark was picked up, and I got onto a flock of camoflaged Little Bustards, of which there were at least 33, in a roadside field. At the next stop, a Calandra Lark after a long flying display, landed and allowed excellent views of this well-marked species.
Hoopoe - Santa Marta de Madagascar
Back in the car, a few more metres up the road and Martin braked suddenly. There on the fence barely 10ft away were two bold, striking, wonderful Great Spotted Cuckoos; a freshly-arrived pair. One of the birds of the entire holiday, they gave unbelievable views sitting right next to the car before flying off, calling - a really ornate species.
Soon Great Bustards were being picked up at our next stop and I picked up two Black-bellied Sandgrouse feeding with them. Suddenly the guillemot-like call of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse filled the air and a flock of 30 or more came hurtling in, the even light showing up the flash of orange underneath, before landing in view! Though distant, the complete lack of haze meant 60x was possible as with some eye-strain we picked out the orange and green markings that characterise this species as well as some on the head. Pin-tailed can be notoriously hard to see well so we spent much time enjoying these. Great Bustards fed now in the adjacent field, affording superb views, and at one point at least 30 took off and flew past within fifty metres, completing a very enjoyable plains spectacular.
A necessarily quieter spot of birding followed, with some very obvious Hawfinches and a few Crag Martins at our lunch stop at the River Tamuja followed, at length, by a small bird spectacular north of Santa Marta involving larks, linnets and pipits in numbers you never see in the UK. Moving on to the Rio Almonte valley south of Monroy, Martin picked up Blue Rock Thrush which only Dad got onto, and then Dad, looking up from the bridge, espied a smart Black Wheatear on the adjacent slope, which gave excellent views and even posed for a few photos. We headed off home to share our stories with Irish crew Mike and Pat: if you’re reading this, thanks for turning the evenings into such a fitting end to the day, we certainly look forward to sampling Irish hospitality in the near future.
7th January:
A half day today took us on a spectacular, rising drive, through arid mountainsides and up towards the Pico de Villuercas. The cloud was above us all the way until, in a visual assault I’ve never seen before, we rose through mist-shrouded oaks then strangely glowing saplings until suddenly, as if flying, we broke out above the cloud and a looked out over a vista of pure, white cloud punctuated only by the glimmering snowline of the Gredos and the occasional ambitious peak. The silence was deafening. At the summit, we explored the area with the sun beating down at 20 degrees. A scramble up to a ravine was productive when a smart male Blue Rock Thrush flew in. Half an hour later, as we prepared to leave this amazing vantage point, the unbelievable happened. Martin called Wallcreeper and bounding away from us, a butterfly of the most indescribable red, sped the bird - two seconds of pure brilliance then gone from view - better than you could imagine. I had to stand still for several minutes to take in what had just happened: the myth was real! Nothing else would measure up but hot on the heals of our most searched-for in Europe came another altitude prize - Alpine Accentor. Picked up by Martin, they were initially flighty but moving closer and closer to us, afforded stunning views of all their intricate markings as they fed confidingly around nearby rocks. We made the descent still reeling and once we were below the cloud again, things seemed to take on an even more dream-like quality.
The local White Stork poses in the gloom - St Clemente, nr Trujillo
8th January:
The mythical Monfrague had much to do if it was to compete with what had gone so far and on arrival, heavy, oppresive mist was making things look pretty grim. At the invisible Penefalcon, sad Griffon Vultures flopped disconsolately around.
A disconsolate Griffon - Penefalcon, Monfrague
Better were smart Rock Buntings and a showy male Lesser Spotted Woodpecker which fed flittingly around a gorge-side tree.
Martin then picked up an Otter as it swam across the Tajo, something I wasn’t expecting somehow in the cavernous surroundings. A long walk at nearby Villareal de San Carlos to play for time produced Cirl Bunting, Rock Bunting and fleeting Dartford Warbler before to our vast relief, the cloud began to lift. As it did, a vast Black Vulture, moving as if in slow motion, cruised past at point blank range. Soon a kettle of at least 30 Griffon Vultures had joined more blacks and could be seen in the distance lauching themselves from the Penefalcon.
Rock Bunting - Penefalcon, Monfrague
Returning to the Penefalcon for lunch proved a stroke of amazing fortune for, amongst the hundreds of Griffon Vultures now airbourn, a pair of Bonelli’s Eagle appeared, gliding in and out of the vultures, offering superb views.
Griffon Vultures, now less disconsolate, at the nest - Penefalcon, Monfrague
Suddenly a flock of woodpigeon, itself quite a sight, approached the peak and suddenly both eagles, a pair, dived upwards into the flock, which bunched in a tight defence. Defeated, the eagles quickly relaxed pursuit only to fly and land - at the summit of the Penefalcon. What followed were unbelievable scope views of this extraordinary species which showed every detail down to the different coloured irises - red for the male, yellow for the female. They had a strangely calm expression, belying their ferocity as predators, and should have been bird of the day by a long way. Black Vultures soared overhead and a Blue Rock Thrush completed the spectacle.
Bonelli's Eagles - Perched atop the Penelfacon, Monfrague - Monster!
Spanish Imperial Eagle atop its kingdom, unforgettable - Tietar, Monfrague
Simultaneously to this, a Black Vulture to alight on the next peak along.
Eventually the eagle lanched itself into the scope before heading off downstream. And so the long wait began for the final species of the day, whilst we watched Blue Rock Thrushes and thousands of woodpigeons shimmering overhead.
As dusk settled and colour went, and our long search had been unsuccessful, the deep, haunting sound of the Eagle Owl echoed through the gorge and froze the small group of birders gathered waiting for it. The sound is eerie and sad, a deep falling hoot only uttered prior to the breeding season. Suddenly a Spanish birder grabbed my scope and there it was - a huge, muscular beast, its ears and eyes just visible, its body immense - not surprising that it can take Goshawks for sport. After a minute it moved off, its call still reverberating through the rocks as we left.
9th January:
Having seen, amazingly, not only all of our target species but one or two superb extras, today was a day geared more to digiscoping as we moved from plains to cranes. Starting off for a second time at the excellent Santa Marta de Magascar area, over 50 Little Bustards took flight from adjacent fields and whirred overhead. Soon we were locating small flocks of Great Bustard and obtained superb views of these ultimate heavyweights as they fed, at one point within 50 metres of the road, affording scope-filling views as well as numerous flight encounters. Two Black-bellied Sandgrouse, a couple of Calandra Lark, a female Hen Harrier and vast finch flocks involving mainly Linnet and Serin were also encountered during our stay.
In the afternoon we moved off towards Madrigalejo where at the disused railway station we struck lucky with up to forty Stone Curlew visible close-by at their day roost, a staggering number compared to usual British totals. Another twenty then took flight, meaning that a grand total of 60 of these birds were present. Moving on to the Casas Del Hito, I was finally able to obtain good digiscoped shots of Common Crane as they fed beside the road, and this time we were in time to see an entire field-load of 1000 or more take flight right past us, a mesmerising sight.
Common Crane - Casas del Hito, Rice Fields.
A Great White Egret flew over again as we worked a nearby ditch. A sudden movement put me onto a point-blank Cetti’s Warbler which afforded superb views, and a Water Rail flushed up. Suddenly, a White-spotted Bluethroat shot past us and after much working of the same reedy ditch, it gave stunning views: an immaculate male already in breeding plumage, flitting around on the mud. Some Little Bustards crashed down nearby and one of several confiding Hoopoes, a bird we had seen amazingly regularly this week, fed close-by. We finally left at dusk to the sight and bugling of Cranes flying to roost - an amazing way to end our last full day.
10th January:
After sad goodbyes to the family and the Irish duo, we set off towards the Embalse de Arroycampo to round-up before heading off to Madrid. Our first stop provided the wonderful sound of bill-clacking White Storks, several Fan-tailed Warblers and a several highly conspicuous Purple Gallinules perched atop reeds and occasionally uttering the toy trumpet call.
Here, as later, Martin got onto Penduline Tit but sadly, what with their tiny size and elusive behaviour, this would be the one escapee of the entire trip. A Marsh Harrier worked fields and Cetti’s Warbler were highly vocal, with one seen. Moving on to the hides, we again failed to pin down Penduline but enjoyed, in order, several Purple Gallinules, a fly-through Bluethroat, a conspicuous Dartford Warbler and then a superb Squacco Heron, eye-balled by Dad, as it fed amongst pigs! At the final hide, a Kingfisher shot past and suddenly an apparition of raptors as if from this air including the ever impressive Black Vulture and several Griffon Vultures. And so it was the end of part one, with all the residents observed in glorious style, and hopefully the first of many trips to the incredible region.